Reinstalling ‘grub’ boot loader

OK. Documenting this here for the next time I have to do this.

I’m working on setting up a computer that dual-boots into Linux and XP.

Rule 1: Always put Windows on the first primary partition on the drive. Linux can go pretty much anywhere else.

Rule 2: Always install Windows first, then Linux, so the boot loader will get set up properly. I knew this, but chose to do things the other way around anyhow (yep, I’m stupid that way). And of course, the XP install hosed the Linux boot loader, so I had to manually restore it, which was a big pain.

Here’s how I reinstalled the boot loader, for the next time I ignore my own advice…

  1. Boot into the Debian netinst CD, or Knoppix, or Tom’s Root Boot, or whatever flavor of standalone Linux you prefer.

    With netinst, you’ll need to walk through the install process until it gets to the disk partitioning part (this ensures that the disk devices are loaded). Then, hit ALT-F2 to get a shell.

  2. Create a mount point, say /disk, and mount your root filesystem there. Example: mount /dev/hda5 /disk
  3. chroot /disk
  4. Mount any additional filesystems you might need, like /boot, etc.
  5. grub-install /dev/hda

That’s all I needed to do, but it took several unsuccessful attempts to arrive at this.

References: here and here.

The hidden cost of bill payment services

I signed up for a bill payment service yesterday. While I was reading through all the legalese in the “bill payment agreement,” it occurred to me that although the service is advertised as being free, it’s really not. There’s a very sneaky cost to it built in, which must be weighed when determining whether using the service is actually cheaper than sending stamped envelopes.

Allow me to elaborate. When a financial institution offers bill payment service, there are several ways in which they can pay the payee. One of these is to actually mail a physical check. And here’s the clincher: most of these services will debit your account at the time they issue the check. The funds are transferred to a “holding” account owned by the financial institution, and the check itself is drawn against the holding account.

Now, when you write and mail a paper check, it never clears right away, because it has to go through the mail, then the payee’s accounts receivable department, etc., before it actually posts and the funds are withdrawn from your account. During that time, the money sits in your account accumulating interest for you. But with a bill payment service, it sits in the financial institution’s holding account, earning interest for them. And that’s the hidden cost: the interest you lose when making these types of transactions. The actual cost varies with the amount of the transaction, the account’s current interest rate, and the length of time it takes the lender to cash the check.

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Of course, the best way to illustrate this is to use a concrete example. Imagine a hypothetical payment of $100 from an account that pays 4% interest compounded monthly, and assume the check-cashing delay is 7 days. Also assume that a stamp costs $0.39 and a paper check costs $0.10. Using the compound interest formula with the above numbers, we come up with $.08 in earned interest on the $100 over the 7 day period. That’s less than the $.49 it would cost to mail the check, so in this case, the bill payment service is the less expensive of the two methods. However, if the payment is $1000, the earned interest over 7 days comes to $0.77. In this case, mailing the check is cheaper. Similarly.. if the payment is $100 but the payee takes 60 days to cash the check instead of 7, the accrued interest comes to $0.66, making the mailed check a better deal in this case too.

It seems that for most average transactions, the bill payment service comes out ahead. The ones to look out for are: large payments, and/or payees who take a long time to cash checks. For most people, the difference in cost is not going to be enough to be significant (I’m also not accounting for non-monetary factors, such as the convenience of the bill-pay service vs. physically writing and mailing a check). But, it’s still worthwhile to keep these things in mind as you’re trying to pinch pennies. A few pennies here and there will add up over time.

8/24/2006: I paid my first bill through Schwab Bill Pay this week, and it appears that my initial assumption was wrong. They paid the bill via a mailed check, but the check went directly against my account, rather than going to a holding account. So, the funds weren’t withdrawn until the payee cashed the check several days later. That basically kills the entire premise of this entry, and makes the bill pay service the clear cost winner in all cases (assuming there’s no monthly fee, of course). Bill pay services have apparently come a long way in the 8 or 9 years since I first tried one out.

Lots of fun stuff

A smorgasbord of various topics today.

I biked in for the first time since 6/21 today. A week of bad weather at the end of June, followed by a 5-day Independence Day weekend, then more unsettled weather the following week, all combined to keep me off the bike for awhile. Our boiler job starts tomorrow, which will potentially affect later rides this week, so I figured today was do-or-die if I’m going to get back into a routine. So, I did.

I also signed up for online bill-payment through our brokerage, now that they’ve kindly made it free. I haven’t used a bill payment service since the late 90s, and I’ve heard they’ve come a long way. I hope to try it out later in the week — I need to wait for some material to arrive snail-mail first.

And, lastly, I’m going to do a bit of computer shuffling..

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Currently, I have

Name Location CPU OS RAM Disk Use
sonata office P4 2.4ghz Linux 512mb 150gb Desktop
concerto office P3 450mhz Linux 576mb 8gb Server
doze office P3 700mhz Windows XP 384mb 20gb Windows Desktop
snorkelwacker home P2 300mhz Linux 384mb 16gb Server

Now that I’m running Remedy on a centrally-maintained Windows 2003 server, and I’ve switched from SQL Navigator to Oracle SQL Developer, I no longer need a full-time Windows desktop in my office. I actually will only need Windows when I’m watching my son, so he can play games. So, I’m thinking I’ll take the 700mhz box, add some memory to it, and make it my office server box. It’ll run Linux full time and dual-boot into XP on the rare occasion that Michael is here. Then I’ll take the 450mhz box home, make it my home server, and put my ancient 300mhz box out to pasture. That will buy me a bit of extra performance at home, and more memory (the 300mhz box is maxed out at 384mb).

For the future, I’m moving away from Linux on the desktop in favor of OS X. So, my next new desktop computer will most likely be a Mac, which will then free up the 2.4ghz box. Then, the bubble-down process will begin again. Fun fun!

Mortar for pool coping stones

I swung by Lowes today to see what kind of mortar (and mortar ingredients) they carry. Neither they nor Home Depot seem to carry white Portland cement, so unless I go through a supplier or lumber yard, it looks like my only choice is gray mortar. However, I’m not sure that’s such a bad thing. Most of the stuff is going underneath the stones, where it won’t be seen. Gray Portland is cheaper than white Portland. What about using gray mortar to bond the stones, then filling in the gaps and other visible areas with white grout? That might be a plan. I just need to look into what kind of “grout” (I put that in quotes, because grout, mortar, etc. all seem to be basically the same thing, namely portland cement, sand, and additives in varying ratios) I would need to get.

Lowes carrys Quikrete products (Home Depot carries Sakrete). They have a bewildering variety of different Quikrete products on the shelf…

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Number Description Bag Weight Bag Price
1102 Mortar Mix 60lbs $4.00
1125 Type N Masonry Cement 70lbs $8.00
1125 Type S Masonry Cement 70lbs $8.50
1136 Mason Mix – Type S Mortar 60lbs $4.50
1136-58 Blended Mortar Mix 80lbs $5.32
1124 Portland Cement Type I/II 94lbs $9.64
1103 Sand/Topping Mix 60lbs $4.00
1230 “Quikwall” Surface Bond Cement – White 50lbs $17.00
1962 Medium Sand 50lbs $5.00
1152 All-Purpose Sand 50lbs $2.90
1133 Vinyl Concrete Patch 40lbs $13.43
1585 Precision Grout 50lbs $14.00

The task now, is to go through all of these, check the Quikrete web site to see what’s actually in each of them, and determine which product(s) are appropriate for my job. Stay tuned.

Honeywell VisionPro 8000 t-stat

I just installed one of these to replace our existing Honeywell t-stat, which was a T8600 series (badged as a “Chronotherm IV Plus”). As part of our big boiler job, we’re splitting our main floor into two heating zones, and I’ll use the old stat for the new zone. The new VisionPro 8000 has a humidity control that will run the A/C when the humidity goes above a preset value. This is the first thermostat I’ve seen with this feature. I’ve always thought it would be a great idea, especially on cool, humid days when the A/C doesn’t run much and the house feels damp and clammy. It doesn’t take much A/C to lower the humidity in the house; just a few minutes to circulate air through the condenser. When you’re trying to change the temperature, you have thermal mass to deal with; that’s not the case with humidity. So, thanks to the new stat, we can have a comfortable house on cool, humid days, without using much extra electricity.

Aside from the humidity control, the VisionPro has a number of improvements over the old Chronotherm IV line. Among others:

  • A much more installer-friendly mounting plate. It has holes to fit a standard electrical wall box. Also, the wire entry opening is in the middle, with mounting holes centered on either side of it. The Chronotherm IV’s mounting holes were off-center, making it a pain to put one where there was previously an electrical box (I know this from experience).
  • One single model handles multiple powering schemes. The Chronotherm IV had three separate models: A power stealing type, a battery powered model, and a direct-wired version that used a common wire. For the VisionPro, they’ve dropped the power stealing option and included both battery and transformer options on the same model. If both are used, the batteries are used for backup power. To me, this makes sense and I’m sure it reduces manufacturing overhead costs.

Add to that a nice, slick touch-screen interface, and it seems like a great thermostat. We’ll see how it does over time.