2011 has been a bad year for me in the injury department. A couple of Saturdays ago, I messed up my ankle during a home improvement project (I should know better by now — it’s physically impossible for me to get through any home improvement project without some kind of injury. Maybe that’s why I’m doing less and less of it these days). It’s just a contusion (no sprain or anything), and 20 years or so ago it probably would have been back to 100% after a couple weeks. But being that I’m 40ish now, everything takes longer to heal. I hate getting old. But anyhow, I’m icing it and trying to keep weight off it, which means curtailing my walking for now. Walking isn’t too bad, but I’m definitely favoring the bad side. At home, I hobble around on crutches. Standing is uncomfortable, as is sitting, unless I keep the ankle elevated. I’ve experimented with an ankle brace, but can’t decide if it’s helping it or irritating it. Ice and Ibuprofen both provide some relief.
The good news is, I seem to be OK with non-weight-bearing exercise. I have no discomfort either biking or swimming, so I’m keeping up with both of those activities (though I’ve dialed the biking back — 3 days this week instead of 5 — just to be on the safe side). I’ve been a little slower than usual on the bike this week, but that’s as much due to this summer’s endless, relentless heat than anything else.
Here’s hoping for an injury-free 2012. Maybe the daily highs will be out of the 90s by then…
Well, as it always seems to now, summer has arrived in May in the Mid-Atlantic. We opened the pool last weekend, and the water temperature is already pushing 80°. By Sunday, it’ll likely be up to 82 or 83. Amusingly enough, we had the cover off the pool at 9:30am and the kids were in the pool by 1:30pm.. a new record. They didn’t stay in for too long, as the water was a little cool. I have a feeling that that will change this weekend. This year I was a little more proactive about keeping the pool chlorinated during early spring (the salt water generator really helps with that) so I didn’t have to do much cleanup, which helped to get the kids in the pool sooner. I doubt they would have been as eager to jump into a green swamp.
I’ve had 4 extremely sweaty rides to and from work this week. That’s par for the course around here in the summer, so I guess the sooner my body gets acclimated to it, the better.
The problems with the rear tire on my single speed bike just keep coming. I went to ride it last week, and noticed a large bulge in the sidewall. I deflated and re-inflated the tire, to no avail, so I pulled the tire off to see what was up. It turns out there was a 1-inch patch where the rubber on the edge of the tire had separated from the wire bead, so the tire would no longer seat properly on the rim. I’m guessing that I may have damaged the tire in my (fruitless) efforts to reinstall it after fixing a flat. This weekend I’m going to take the tire back to the LBS and hope they’ll have mercy on me and exchange it, or at least give me a discount on a new one. I’ve since acquired a “bead jack” tool that will get the tire on the rim without damaging the tire, the rim, my thumbs, or my blood pressure.
Among the many joys of home improvement projects, are the little complications that come up and make a project take longer, cost more, etc. Certain kinds of projects are more likely to result in this than others, and a prime example is installing replacement windows.
I decided I was going to install 6 replacement windows this fall, to take advantage of the 2010 Energy Tax Credits. I’ve installed replacement windows before, and it’s generally a pretty quick job. My first 2 windows went in without a hitch. The next 2, not so much. When I took off the old storm windows, I found that one of the sills was rotted out, as well as a piece of 2×4 that sat underneath the sills. Day 1 was spent digging out the old, rotten 2×4. Day 2 was spent repairing rotten bits of (non structural) framing and brick mold around the window, and cutting and fitting a new piece of pressure treated 2×4 bottom trim. Day 3 was spent cutting out and repairing the rotten part of the sill. On Day 4, I finally was able to install the replacement windows. But now, I still need to add flashing and weather-seal the whole mess. Plus, I’ve decided to replace all the wood trim around the windows with PVC trim board. The old wood was in decent shape, but the paint was peeling badly, and at some point someone had covered all the peeling paint with really ugly aluminum trim. All in all, this was an amazing example of project scope creep. The scary thing is, I still have 2 more windows to install after this, and who knows what I’ll find there.
We closed our pool this past Saturday, 10/2, and not a day too soon. Less than 24 hours after we put the safety cover on, it was completely covered with leaves. Our final swim of the season was Sunday, 9/26, which although a couple weeks shy of our all-time record, was still pretty late, considering we didn’t use a solar blanket this year. We had a late-September heat wave that got the water temperature back up to a fairly balmy 80 degrees.
Took advantage of some dry (albeit cloudy) weather this morning to take a 20 mile ride into work on the fixed gear. I have been having some problems with my hands falling asleep on this bike, so last week I made a couple of minor fit adjustments: first I raised the stem about ½”, which helped a bit, but not enough. So next I tried tilting my seat back a little more, and that seems to have helped a lot. Apparently I was putting too much pressure on my hands and shoulders trying to keep from sliding forward on the seat. The down-side of this is that the seat is now slightly less comfortable. It may make sense to try a different saddle.
Not much noteworthy about today’s ride, except that I wore a long sleeve jersey, for the first time since probably May. As hot as this summer has been, I didn’t think this day would ever arrive. Won’t be long, and I’ll be griping about how cold it is and how I wish I could get back to wearing summer clothes. I did pack a short sleeve shirt for the return ride this afternoon.
I raised the stem height on my fixed-gear bike yesterday, hoping it would make the bars a little more comfortable. Fortunately I had a little more height available on my threadless steerer tube, and was able to rearrange the spacers and get the stem up about ¼”. It helped a bit with the reach, but not really with the hand positions. I think I may need to swap out handlebars. The bike currently has “bull horns,” which are indeed popular on urban-style fixed gear bikes (and also time trial bikes), but I just don’t find them comfortable for everyday commuting. I’m still undecided as to what to try. Standard drop bars are an option, but I’ve also heard good things about “moustache” style bars. Either way, I’ll also need new brake levers. Will need to give this some thought.
Going to try to get in a quick swim this weekend. It may be my last time in the pool this season. Our solar blanket was falling apart, so we got rid of it earlier this summer, and now we’re missing it. It can be a pain to deal with, but it does extend the pool season a bit.
Unfortunately, Snowpocalypse 2010 has put the brakes on bike commuting for the time being this winter. If I can’t do it safely, I don’t do it, and the roads are not in good shape for biking. I’ll be back out as soon as some of it melts, and/or I can find a safe route to take.
Over the past couple days, I’ve driven along some of my favorite bike-commuting routes, and here are my observations.
Lawyers Hill Rd and Levering Ave: Bare pavement, both lanes, a little narrow. Doesn’t carry much traffic, so I would have no problem biking this.
River Rd between Lawyers Hill and Patapsco State Park: bare pavement, 1 lane wide.
River Rd park entrance: blocked by a giant mountain of snow and will probably be that way for a long time. Access road hasn’t been touched.
US 1 between South St and Levering Ave: pretty good shape in both directions, but a couple spots where icy slush blocks the entire shoulder, which would necessitate riding out into the right lane.
Montgomery Rd between US 1 and Marshalee Ave: not too bad in most spots, but missing shoulder in places. Would not feel comfortable biking this during rush hour.
Montgomery Rd between Marshalee Ave and Rockburn Dr: no shoulder. Non-starter.
Rockburn Dr: one lane, poorly plowed and icy.
Kerger Rd: bare pavement, a bit narrow. Could bike here.
Ilchester Rd between Kerger and Beechwood: Similar to south Montgomery.
Landing Rd: glanced at it while driving by on Ilchester, and what I saw did not look good.
Beechwood, Bonnie Branch and River Rds: single lane clear. Could bike in a pinch, but not ideal.
Hilltop and Thistle Rds were both unplowed and closed off at River Rd.
Frederick Rd between River Rd and Oella Ave (Ellicott City Side): best of the lot. Shoulders fully clear.
Oella Ave: single lane, not plowed very well.
Wilkens Ave from Rolling Rd to UMBC: decent shape, shoulder clear. Bikeable.
On the way home, I’ll check out the conditions through Relay and Halethorpe. But it looks like any route I take is going to be non-ideal, so I will have to pick the lesser of the evils. Currently, that appears to be Lawyers Hill to Levering to U.S. 1, to South St and through Relay and Halethorpe (depending on what shape those roads are in; I’ll find out later today).
UMBC is cleared out as well as can be expected. The head-in parking on Hilltop Circle works in my favor in these conditions, because to allow for parking, they have to clear the “buffer zone” between the road and the parking spots, which provides room to ride out of the travel lane. Most, but not all, of the loop is clear. But all the same, there are enough walkways clear that I can just cut through campus on foot if I had to. All in all, they did a pretty good job.
On a totally unrelated note.. The other day I noticed that Home Depot was selling 50lb bags of Calcium Chloride “ice melter” pellets for around $17. Calcium Chloride is among the more expensive alternatives for ice melter, and it’s not common to find it being sold as such at retail around here. It is common to find it at swimming pool stores, where it’s sold as “Calcium Hardness Increaser”, often at prices of over $2 a pound. So while $17 may seem like a lot to pay for 50lbs of ice melter, it’s an amazing bargain for 50lbs of “Calcium Hardness Increaser.” So, I picked up a bag to use in the pool this spring. I would have bought more, but apparently I got the last bag in the store.
Spend 30 minutes with the leafmaster, vacuuming up all the junk at the bottom of the pool from the storms last night.
Achieve pleasant sense of accomplishment and well-being as I begin to remove the leafmaster from the now-clean pool.
Watch leafmaster bag separate from leafmaster as I’m pulling it out of the pool, spewing all the junk back into the pool where it immediately settles back to the bottom.
Mutter some choice words as I attempt to re-attach bag to leafmaster while it helpfully sprays water all over me and the pool deck.
Check that bag is secure and repeat step 1.
Pull leafmaster out of pool, this time with no mishaps, but now, instead of being happy, I’m sweaty and irritable. But at least the pool is clean again.
Ever think you might want your own pool? Forget it and go join the neighborhood pool. Thank me later 🙂
So.. another summer is upon us. Howard County schools finally let out at the end of this week. I remember when I was a kid, summer vacation was almost 3 months long, and now it’s down to barely two. Instead, there are tons more random days off during the school year, for “professional teacher work days” and the like. Not sure if it’s a step forward or back, but I think if I was a kid I’d feel a bit gypped.
Three weeks after uncovering, the pool is finally clear, clean and up to a reasonable swimming temperature. It was more of a swamp than usual this spring. Over 3 weeks I’d say it took 20 gallons of 12.5% sodium hypochlorite, 10 pounds of dry acid, 15 pounds of baking soda, and 3 pounds of aluminum sulfate (a flocculent) to get it cleared up. I had to vacuum to waste 4 times, compared to twice on an average year. Not sure what the deal was this year, but I’m sure the April heat wave didn’t help. It also didn’t help that the pool was already starting an algae bloom when we covered it in late September. Didn’t feel like dealing with it then, knew at the time it was going to give me headaches come spring, covered it anyway. Lesson for the day: Never put off fixing pool water problems.. they never go away, they just become bigger problems over time.
The big new thing for the pool this summer is the salt water generator. I installed it over the winter and early spring, in the hopes that it would cut down on work and help prevent water problems. One of the problems with manual chlorination is that during the summer, you can’t neglect it, even for a single day, or you will end up with algae. Automatic chlorine feeders are a step up, but you still have to buy, store and handle the chlorine, and you have to remember to keep the feeder full. With the SWG, you dump an initial amount of salt into the pool, then you set the SWG and forget it. Obviously they still require maintenance, but they eliminate the day-to-day drugdery of manual chlorination and eliminate the need to handle and store lots of chlorine. Now, I keep a little bit on hand for “shocking,” but that’s it. The jury will be out on the SWG until I’ve had it for a whole season, but up to now, it’s lived up to the hype and seems like the best thing to come along for pools since automatic cleaners.
I’m in the process of installing a salt-water chlorine generator (model DIG-60 from AutoPilot) for my swimming pool. As part of this, I need to plumb the salt cell in downstream of my filter. The cell is part of a big inline manifold which includes a 3lb spring check valve. The valve’s purpose is to limit the water pressure going through the salt cell, theoretically extending the cell’s life. Anyhow, as I was preparing to install the manifold, I dropped it (don’t ask) and the check valve broke away from one of its adjoining tees:
Broken AutoPilot Manifold
What to do here? The whole manifold is solvent-welded together, and the tees are attached to proprietary unions. At first glance there appeared to be no way to fix it other than ordering a replacement manifold, at a cost of over $100. By contrast, a replacement check valve can be had online for $15-20. So I decided to think outside the box a bit. The check valve is made by Flo-Control and is commonly sold as an air check valve for spa blowers. It has a 1½” socket and a 2″ spigot, meaning one can either attach a 1½” pipe “inside” it, or a 2″ pipe “around” it. AutoPilot ships it with 2″ tees cemented to either side, which attach to the pool’s plumbing. My pool has 1½” plumbing, so I would ordinarily need a reducer bushing to attach to the tees on the manifold. When the manifold broke, the 1½” socket end of the valve was left stuck inside the tee. Eventually, it occurred to me that if I cut the other tee away from the valve, I could flip the tees around and cement a new valve to the intact ends. The other ends, with the remains of the original valve, would then accommodate my 1½” plumbing without the need for reducer bushings. It seemed like a great plan, so I pulled out my trusty miter saw and cut the intact tee away from the old valve, leaving me with 3 pieces:
AutoPilot Manifold Parts
I then went online to look for a replacement valve, and promptly ran into another problem. It turns out that this particular valve is sold in a bunch of different spring weights: .75, 5, 10, and 15 pounds, to name a few. The version that ships with the AutoPilot has a 3lb spring. And here’s the problem: I wasn’t able to find the valve with a 3lb spring anywhere. It’s not even listed on Flo-Control’s web site. They’re apparently made special-order for AutoPilot.
Makeshift check valve spring removal tools
Undeterred, I wondered if I could remove the spring from the broken valve and reuse it in a new valve. With the help of a couple of makeshift “spring removal” tools I fashioned out of copper wire, I was able to extract the spring. As a proof-of-concept, I then replaced the spring with the help of some needle-nose pliers. Encouraged, I went ahead and ordered an identical valve with a .75lb spring. I chose the model with the lightest spring I could find, figuring it’d be the easiest to get out without damaging the valve. The valve arrived a few days later, and happily, it was identical to the original valve, other than having a different weight spring and not being broken. The lighter-weight spring easily came out of the new valve, and with a little effort I was able to insert the 3lb spring. Turns out direction matters when re-inserting the spring: it initially wouldn’t seat properly, but when I flipped it around it went right in. With that, I had a working, non-broken 3lb check valve. I then cemented the two tees onto either end of the valve, completing the repair:
Repaired AutoPilot Manifold
All that’s left to do is plumb it in and make sure it works. Assuming it does, my little accident (dropping the manifold) cost me a lot less than I had feared.
The great digital TV antenna project continues. I found out that the cheapie UHF antennas I built are known as “4 bay bowtie dipoles,” and they are very similar to the Model 4221 by Channel Master. Based on my reading, I’ve decided not to try using a combiner to join the antenna signals. Instead I picked up a remote control A/B switch at Radio Shack, model 15-1968, and it seems to work great. I’m going to buy a second one for our other TV. Providing most of your stations are in 1 of 2 different directions (as mine are), this switch is a great alternative to a rotator. In particular, multiple TVs can watch signals from different antennas simultaneously, which is not possible with a rotor. The down side, of course, is that you need to run two separate antenna cables to each TV. But that only needs to be done once. I’ve also ordered a couple of Sony model RM-VL600 universal remotes, based on all the positive reviews. My hope is that I can use these to work the A/B switches. We’ll see how they work out once they get here.
I may need to move my Baltimore antenna. It’s aimed NNE directly at TV hill, but there are a lot of tall trees blocking its path. It seems to pick up most of the Baltimore stations just fine.. WMAR-2, WBAL-11 and WBFF-45 all come in perfectly with 95%+ signal strength consistently and no dropouts. WJZ-13 is my problem child, though. I was watching it this afternoon and it started dropping out as soon as the wind kicked up. Wondering if the frequency WJZ-DT is currently using has something to do with it — WMAR, WBAL and WBFF are all currently at the higher end of the UHF spectrum, while WJZ is lower at 38. Dunno, but I’m going to try moving the antenna to the other end of the house, where it can hopefully get a clear shot through the foliage. Just need a longer length of RG-6.
All bets are going to be off come February 2009, when a lot of these stations will be shifting back to the VHF band. At that point, I may need to add a VHF antenna to my setup. Looks like all of my local stations will end up on the high VHF band (channels 7-13), so I should be able to get by with a smaller VHF antenna. I’m going to hold off before I do anything, though. My current antennas seem to pick up the analog channels in the VHF-hi band pretty well, so they may do the job with the digital channels.
